In the last article I talked about some of my favorite trapping dvds. Now I would like to talk about some of my favorite books. I am a self proclaimed bookworm, and if I am interested in a topic, I will read anything I can get my hands on about it.
Trapping books vary widely in subject matter. One of my all time favorite predator books is Ray Milligan’s Coyote Fever. Ray knows the coyote like few do. The book is very much to the point and goes through the equipment and sets you need to be successful.
Other predator books worth mentioning are the ones by Charles Dobbins. Anyone who is familiar with the late Charles Dobbins, knows that anything he has written is worth reading. My two favorites are The Dirt Hole and its Variations, and Variations of the Flat Set. Not only are these entertaining to read, but I also use these books as reference manuals. When things get slow on the line, I can always find a new set to use from these books. The print is small in these books and Dobbins packs a massive amount of content in them.
When it comes to coons and water trapping, there are also many choices. One of my personal favorite authors on the subject is Mike “Red” O’Hern. If you have not met Red, you owe it to yourself to do so. He is quite a character, and very interesting to read and to listen to. Red wrote Coon Trapping – the Untold Story and Mink Trapping – The Quest For Prime Mink. If you want to become a better coon and mink trapper, this is a good start.
If you are looking for something a bit more modern, don’t pass up Trapline Principles, 8 Keys To Success by Kellen Kaatz. Not only is Kellen a super helpful guy, but he is also a very knowledgeable trapper and lure maker. Upon finishing this book, you will understand what Kellen believes is the 8 biggest things you need to work at to be a good trapper. An excellent book for making yourself a better trapper.
Last but not least, I wanted to mention another favorite of mine. Chronicles of a Longliner by Gary Jepson. This isn’t a “how to make a dirthole” book, but rather a book full of Gary’s experiences on and off the trapline since the 1950’s. Gary talks of the hardships faced on his ranch, and the good years during the fur boom. Gary documents his travels to conventions, his lure making adventures, and battling the harsh winters in North Dakota through the years.
Go out and pick up a book or two. You are almost guaranteed to learn something, and you will most definitely be entertained in the process!
My next article will talk about some of the youtubers I have found to be helpful in gaining some more knowledge of the craft!
When I was a kid the thought of having to go to summer school was enough to make me do my math homework. After all, summer was time for swimming, baseball and catching bullheads. It was definitely not for doing school work.
But fast forward to modern times. For us trappers, the summer is our “off season”. But is it really? Even if you don’t do any animal damage control work, there are still things to be done in the summer. Remember those dog proofs you put away that were all crusted up from bait? How about those 1 1/2s still packed with mud and grass, and those Bridger #3’s with the bent dogs and the chains all tangled in corn husks? Not to mention the bucket of “miscellaneous snare parts” that always gets put away for a rainy day.
Forget all of that stuff for now. One of my favorite things to do in the summer is catch up on all those books and DVD’s I bought during the year. I am the type of person that retains information better if I take notes. My system of learning from a DVD involves watching them at least three times. The first time I watch the DVD I watch it for the entertainment value only. I like to watch the guy making sets, seeing the scenery and just watching one of my favorite activities being done by someone knowledgeable. The second time I watch the DVD I will come prepared with a notebook. I stop, start, rewind, fast forward and try to take in and write down tips and information the instructor is offering. The third time I will watch again with my notebook, going over my notes as they are talked about in the DVD and picking up the new information I missed in the last viewing. After all this, if it is a good DVD, it will still get watched again. Books are kind of the same way.
Some of my favorites
Like anyone else, I have my favorites when it comes to dvds. One of my all time favorites is Coyote Trapping with Mark June. This is one I watch at the beginning of the season every year. Mark is a high energy guy and understands both trapping and the coyote itself. This dvd was filmed in Nebraska as well which makes it close to home.
Another of my favorites is Trapping the Elusive Coyote by Gary Jepson. Gary is a cowboy from North Dakota and his trapping experience is vast. Gary is a man of few words, but when he talks, one is inclined to listen. The first 10 minutes or so of that dvd, Gary talks about family units and habits of the coyote, and the information presented there is well worth the price of the dvd.
A couple other favorites of mine are Lesel Reuwsaat Professional Farmland Trapping Methods and Ed Schneider’s Fall and Winter Coyote Trapping, both of which were filmed in Kansas, or otherwise close to home.
In the next article I will talk about some of my favorite books, some awesome youtubers you should be watching, and some water trapping dvd’s.
How did you get started in trapping? Being a Farm Kid.
What is your favorite animal to target? Yotes, Cats
What do you enjoy most about the sport of trapping? The Money.
What is one of your most memorable trapping moments? The time we got the pickup truck stuck during a mid night muskrat check with my new GF. Truck got burred so fast I didnt even get to steel a kiss. We had to walk 2 miles in cold wet snow. I carried her 1/2 mile on my back as she was cold and wet.
We arrived at the barn started the tractor and went to retrieve my pickup. That very petite beautiful girl became my wife 2 years later. She has trapped with me on and off for more than 40 of my 50 years of setting steel. This season my teen grandchildren began trapping.
What would you like to see changed as far as trapping regulations in Nebraska? 1) 72 hour trap check’s are allowed with the following exceptions. Except on identified public use areas, Wildlife Management Area, or Public Lakes/Reservoir.
Moreover. traps must be place 1/2 mile (880 yards) from any occupied residence.
2) Redefine Live trap: Cage traps and steel laminated jaw or rubber laminated jaw types with at least a 1/4 inch offset jaw space shall be considered live animal trap.
What other hobbies do you have? Longline Trapping is all season job.
Anything else you want the Nebraska Fur Harvesters to know about you? I lived in Washington County, Neb for more than 18 Years. On an average season I will trap and call more than 225 square miles.
Annually, the Nebraska Game and Parks commission will mail out (or email) surveys to permit holders. These are sent out to holders of fur harvest permits as well as hunting, big game and waterfowl hunting permits.
The surveys are anonymous and the responses provide valuable information to our wildlife biologists. Using this information, they can set season dates, daily bag limits, and keep a handle on populations.
As good stewards of our resources, we take the responsibility of purchasing permits to take part in these activities. We also need to take the responsibility of providing feedback to the commission on our experiences. Remember, the surveys are anonymous.
The largest rodent found in North America is also the animal that started the North American fur trade. Countless entrepreneurs have made and lost fortunes on it’s pelt throughout history. Native Americans knew it for it’s warm fur and meat.
Today the beaver has lost some of it’s luster but still remains a staple furbearer in some parts of the country. In Nebraska, we have the added advantage of trapping them an extra month compared to some of the other furbearers. The equipment used and the methods of take vary as widely as the pursuers of this classic animal. We will take a look at what it takes to trap beaver in Nebraska.
Being considerably larger than the muskrat, beaver trapping equipment is proportionally larger, bulkier and more expensive. Yet some of your existing equipment can be used for beaver trapping. A number 3 coil spring or long spring trap can be utilized in some sets. A better choice would be a #4 or larger, since beaver have extremely large back feet. If you go the body grip route for beaver, the 330 conibear is the best body grip to use.
The sets you make for beaver can also vary widely. A couple of my favorites are the castor mound and “dam break” set. The castor mound set involves digging up some mud and plopping it on the bank
The castor mound set. Courtesy of www.trappersline.com
of a creek, pond or river. On this mound, place a dab of castor based beaver lure. Beavers make castor mounds to mark their territory and your mound will signal them that an intruder is in the area. The beaver will naturally attempt to put more mud on your mound, and top it with his own castor, showing you he’s the boss. Be prepared for him by placing a trap (or two) where you suspect he will come out of the water.
The dam break set capitalizes on the beaver’s ingenuity and dam building skills. Use your shovel, a stick, or your foot to break away part of the beaver dam and place a trap near this break. The beaver will be caught in the process of attempting to rebuild what you have broken. This also doubles as a good way to determine if there are still beaver in the area. Be cautious of where you place your trap or you may find after the the beaver has finished it’s repair job, your trap has become part of the dam!
Bob Miers of Sandy’s Fur Buying gives the following advice on beaver sets: “Spring is a time they travel as the young are kicked out and made to move on so to speak.
Bob Miers with his fur ready for auction.
Even if you have little or no sign in your area on a river or creek, make a few scent mound sets and you will probably catch any passing beaver. I give an area 5 days and move on no matter how many I catch. I use scent mounds the most, some blind sets, and if there is a dam I use the broken dam set, and runs and trails what some guys call slides.”
Getting around with all this heavy equipment can be another challenge. Dave Hastings, Fur Takers Of America College Instructor, overcomes this challenge by using a boat. “I use a 6.5 horse Mud Buddy motor on my 12′ narrow John boat. I almost never get a “boat ramp” to launch or pick up, so the small motor makes it possible to drag it, or remove the motor and carry to launch most anywhere.
Dave Hastings pilots his boat and trapping equipment up the river.
If there is snow, I can generally drag the unloaded boat down to the water by hand, and in the pull out, I have strung rope and chain for a long ways, using the bumper hitch to drag the boat up to a “loadabale” point. Before that, I ran a 17′ aluminum canoe. It was more pleasing, but I found I had to skin on the river when the catch is good, because of the weight and maneuverability issues of the canoe, and heavy beaver.” Dave also offers the following advice on spring beaver sets: “Beaver interest in castor lure is very high at this time. Generally I select active set locations (feed piles, bank den/lodge combinations, etc.) but I generally set the downstream end of most
A castor based lure is essential for targeting spring beaver.
good sized islands, even without sign. Dispersing 2 and 3 year olds are out looking for other beaver, and the point at the bottom of an island for beaver is like the fire hydrant at the park for dogs. I almost always make at least two, sometimes 4 sets if I stop. I try to use a
castor based lure on one, and a food based lure (no castor) on the other. For the first two catches, it won’t matter, but I think beaver can get wise to a particular smell.”
An array of castor based lures available from Minnesota Trapline Supplies
Some other points to remember on beaver trapping pertain to equipment. One way sliding drowner cables should be used whenever possible. Anything heavy can be used as a weight at the end. To cut down on carrying weight, bring empty feed sacks and fill them with rocks and gravel at the set site. Empty feed sacks can be had for cheap at most feed stores. If you use 330’s, remember that Nebraska law states that body gripping traps with a jaw spread over 8″ must be placed under water. Also make sure you obtain permission on any private land and water. In Nebraska, if a river runs through the property, you must obtain permission from the landowner. You must also have landowner permission to trap under bridges that are in the county road right-of-way. (This can vary by county in Nebraska, check with your local game warden if in doubt).
Once you have caught your beaver, you can skin them yourself or
Putting up beaver requires a different skinning technique and special equipment.
take them to a fur buyer whole. There are many useful parts on a beaver other than the fur. The meat, oil sacks, and castor glands have value to lure makers. The tails do as well, and the tails can also be skinned and processed like leather. Many people also eat the meat, saying it is akin to venison.
Last but not least, is the aspect of safety. Being on a river this time (or any time) of year can be hazardous. Dave Hastings has the following advice on safety: “If you are just starting out, you will need to experiment to see how long a line you should put in. Being on a shallow river after dark, when it is cold, is a very dangerous activity (don’t ask how I know, or how many times that lesson was taught…). Carry “dry bags” for extra clothes, flashlights, and first aid. Buy a cell phone waterproof kit/bag. (Cabelas, even Walmart.) A wet phone is immediately useless. And bear in mind that you likely will often be out of cell service. Be sure someone knows generally where you are and generally when you should be back. Don’t kid yourself. You may only be a few miles from a road or farmhouse, but if a catastrophe occurs, you might as well be on the moon. Consider, plan–think through decisions with safety in mind. Bad cuts, hypothermia, injuries, other health issues–all can be deadly.”
Don’t put those traps away just because spring is starting! We still have some time left. Get out there and enjoy what we have to offer in Nebraska.
-Mark Hajny, NFH member. Bob Miers is the NFH Secretary and owner of Sandy’s Fur Buying of Seward, Nebraska. Dave Hastings is an avid trapper, the editor of the Furtaker, (official magazine of the FTA) and instructs at the Furtaker’s College in the fall.
For some trappers, when the winter is winding down and the coon and coyote pelts are starting to show their wear, it means only one thing…beaver and muskrat trapping!
The season on most furbearers in Nebraska comes to an end on February 28th. For muskrat and beaver, however, the season extends another month to March 31st. The pelts on these two furbearers remain prime through this time and for many reasons it is a good time to go after them.
If you are a trapper, the muskrat will provide fun for all ages! Muskrats can be found in marshes, rivers, small creeks and some farm ponds. Back in my early days (nineteen eighty something…) You could drive by any public waterfowl area and see “muskrat huts”. These were large piles of sticks and reeds and other vegetation that muskrats used as homes and feeding areas. I haven’t seen a muskrat hut in several years. Muskrat numbers have declined in the past years and they can be hard to find.
The equipment used for muskrat trapping is small, lighter weight and relatively less expensive than most traps and equipment. Size 1 foot holds (coil or long spring) and 110 body grip traps are effective tools against the ‘rat. Bob Miers of Sandy’s Fur Buying gives the following advice on equipment for muskrat trapping: “If you use leg holds make sure to use one way drowners and have deep enough water or you will find legs and not rats. If shallow water, use sureholds, conibear and colony traps work great in places as well.”
The Duke brand guard trap. Also known as “sure-hold” or “stop-loss” by other manufacturers.
To trap them, find where it appears they are entering their dens at the waters edge. This can be a partially submerged hole that looks used, or get your waders on, get in the water and feel around with your foot to find the “runs”. These are channels down in the mud that muskrats use to travel to and from their dens, much like a land animal uses a trail. A 110 or foot trap placed in the run or mouth of the hole is your best bet. These runs are also good places for colony traps.
Shane Claeys of Papio Creek Trap Supply manufactures and sells the Magnum Power Clip conversion kit
Magnum Power Clip from Papio Creek Trapping Supplies attached to rod.
which allows you to attach your 110’s to a rod, such as an electric fence post, and allows you to hold steady and adjust the height of your 110. This is an effective way to cover den holes in the bank. There is a link to Papio Creek trap supply on our vendor showcase page.
Muskrat floats are another fun way to target this furbearer. This is simply a raft made of wood, floating on the water, with some bait on it and a trap or two.
Muskrat float, sold by Minnesota Trapline Supplies.
For bait, muskrats are especially fond of carrots, apples, and parsnips. Don’t forget to anchor your trap to the float and employ some method to keep your float from floating away! The designs of floats and methods of use are numerous. You can buy them pre-made or make your own. A google search will turn up numerous options on making a muskrat float.
If you skin your own catch, don’t throw away those carcasses. Muskrats have glands that are used in some lures, and their meat also makes good predator bait. The carcasses also make good mink bait when used whole or cut in smaller chunks.
Since muskrat numbers are down, it is good advice to not completely trap-out an area. Leave some of the numbers for “seed”, so you can have some breeding stock for next year.
In part 2, we will talk about beaver and the equipment and methods used.
-Mark Hajny – NFH Member. Bob Miers is the NFH Treasurer and owner of Sandy’s Fur Buying of Seward, Nebraska.
Minnesota Trapline Products, Inc. was founded in October of 1978 by Tim and Nancy Caven. MTP has grown over the past 37 years to be the single largest direct retail trapping supply company in the world. Minnesota Trapline Products branched out into the manufacturing of specialized heavy duty (“MB – Minnesota Brand”) trap line equipment in 1994. In 2010 MTP purchased the Bridger Trap Company from Terry and Jody Montgomery.
Your order (big or small) is our #1 priority and customer service is our specialty. Everyone here at Minnesota Trapline Products fully understands that the customer comes first and that we won’t be going home until each and every order is done and done right. We want ONE chance to prove ourselves to each of you. If we can’t handle your order perfectly, we don’t expect a second chance
Remember, as always, if you’re a veteran we would be pleased to send you a free MTP T-shirt or hat with your order. We strongly support our military men and women. Thank you greatly for the opportunity to serve you and rest assured that you will be treated with the genuine respect that you deserve
Gary Macke Hide and Fur (NAFA Receiving Agent) (402) 358-5478
Gary is the Nebraska receiving agent for NAFA and also a fur buyer. Gary also sponsors the Kid’s Fur Raffle every year in conjunction with the Nebraska Fur Harvesters.
Kevin Jones is a fur buyer and receiver for Groenewold Fur. He is located in Palmyra, Nebraska. Click above to go to Groenewolds site to find out information on fur routes and pickup schedules in your area.
Top Lot Stretcher Co. is family-owned and operated in Worthington, MN. We started manufacturing and selling stretchers in 2010. We started the company to spread the word on proper fur handling and the correct sizing on fur forms. Leon is well known for his fur handling skills especially for his coon put up. He has competed in several Fur Handling ad Fur Grading Competitions. He is always willing to share his tips and tricks on trapping and put up. We believe in quality products at a fair price. Quality is our number one priority.
Leon is a lifetime member to the National Trappers Association and Minnesota Trappers Association. He is a member of Fur Takers of America, Iowa Trappers Association, Nebraska Trappers Association, and the South Dakota Trappers Association. It is always important to be part of your states association.
e Fever. Ray knows the coyote like few do. The book is very much to the point and goes through the equipment and sets you need to be successful.
Not only are these entertaining to read, but I also use these books as reference manuals. When things get slow on the line, I can always find a new set to use from these books. The print is small in these books and Dobbins packs a massive amount of content in them.
He is quite a character, and very interesting to read and to listen to. Red wrote Coon Trapping – the Untold Story and Mink Trapping – The Quest For Prime Mink. If you want to become a better coon and mink trapper, this is a good start.
Trapline Principles, 8 Keys To Success by Kellen Kaatz. Not only is Kellen a super helpful guy, but he is also a very knowledgeable trapper and lure maker. Upon finishing this book, you will understand what Kellen believes is the 8 biggest things you need to work at to be a good trapper. An excellent book for making yourself a better trapper.
Gary talks of the hardships faced on his ranch, and the good years during the fur boom. Gary documents his travels to conventions, his lure making adventures, and battling the harsh winters in North Dakota through the years.
This is one I watch at the beginning of the season every year. Mark is a high energy guy and understands both trapping and the coyote itself. This dvd was filmed in Nebraska as well which makes it close to home.
Gary is a cowboy from North Dakota and his trapping experience is vast. Gary is a man of few words, but when he talks, one is inclined to listen. The first 10 minutes or so of that dvd, Gary talks about family units and habits of the coyote, and the information presented there is well worth the price of the dvd.
